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Handicrafts & Carpets                                                            Exercise 1.10.62
            Hand Embroidery Artisan - Rafugari and Finishing & Packing

            Raw material used

            Objective: At the end of this exercise you shall be able to
            •  calculate the raw material.

               Requirements

               Materials
               •  Shawl                             - as reqd.    •  Ink used for block printing         - as reqd.
               •  Thread                            - as reqd.

            PROCEDURE
            Calculation of raw material in Sozni Shawl            Formula
            1  Measure the shawl dimensions                       Total thread = (Thread used per 10×10 cm) × (Total
                                                                  design area ÷ 100 cm )
                                                                                     2
               •  Standard size: 2 meters x 1 meter = 2 sq. meters
               •  Custom sizes may vary.                          5  Calculate tracing material
                                                                  For design transfer
            2  Identify the raw materials
                                                                    •  Design Sheet (butter paper): 1 sheet per shawl
                Material       Unit          Purpose                   (approx.)
             Base Fabric    Meter     Pashmina, Wool, Cotton,       •  Charcoal/Ink: 5–10 grams per shawl
                                      etc.
             Embroidery  Meter/ Silk or cotton thread for         6  Tabulate the calculation example
             Thread         Gram      Sozni                       Example for 1 Sozni Shawl with medium design
             Design Tracing  Sheet    For   transferring  the
             Sheet                    design                          Material          Unit          Quantity
             Charcoal/Ink   Gram      For design tracing          Pashmina fabric Meter            2 meters
             Needle         Piece     Hand embroidery             Embroidery  Meter                60 meters
                                                                  thread
            3  Calculate base fabric consumption                  Tracing Sheet    Sheet           1
               •  For 1 shawl, you need 2 meters of fabric if width   Charcoal     Gram            5 grams
                  is 1 meter.                                     Needle           Piece           1

               •  If fabric roll is wider, adjust accordingly:
                                                                  7  Optional  tools  (reusable,  not  counted  in  raw
            Formula                                                 material)
            Required fabric (meters) = Shawl length × No. of shawls  •  Embroidery Frame (Hoop)
            4  Calculate embroidery thread consumption              •  Scissors
            Thread usage depends on design density                  •  Iron (for finishing)

                                              Thread used           •  Measuring Tape
              Design type   Coverage area     (Approx.) per       8  Summary
                                                 Shawl
             Light Sozni   20–30%           25–35 meters          To calculate raw material for Sozni shawl
             Medium Sozni 40–60%            50–70 meters            •  Know the size
             Heavy Sozni   70–100%          80–120 meters           •  Estimate design density
            Method to calculate precisely                           •  Use sampling to calculate thread
            1  Embroider a 10cm x 10cm sample with the design       •  Track fabric and tracing material
               style.
            2  Measure thread used in that sample.
            3  Multiply by total design area on shawl.



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